Le Marche des Enfants Rouges

I love food markets - both the open and closed varieties. They seem to exemplify the spirit of the people, the place and its culture. Hence, I always make it a point to try visit the local market if there is one on during my visit. A highlight of our recent visit to Paris was a visit to Le Marche des Enfants Rouges. It is reputed to be the oldest food market in Paris, built under the rule of Louis XIII around 1615. The name, which literally means the Market of the Red Children, refers to the red uniform worn by
the children of the orphanage that was located nearby.

We walked through a labyrinth of narrow winding streets, aristocratic castles and medieval architecture to reach the market. This area was home to the noblemen who wished to be near the King's residence in pre-revolution France.

Located in the chic Marais district, the market is alive with the rich, vibrant colours and smells of fresh fruits, vegetables, cheese and flowers and the sounds of market clatter and chatter. We stopped for a pre-lunch aperitif consisting of a refreshing glass of white wine and some delicious cheese from the "massif central". First stop was at the cheese sellers to ask for a recommendation that would not be too soft nor too hard and would be perfect for a sunny day in the out doors. Then to the bread stall for a baguette. Finally, to the wine seller to order four glasses of wine and then to find a nice table in the shade. Ah, what a delicious meal.

The market is an ideal spot for lunch too. Freshly cooked dishes can be bought from the various stalls (Moroccan, French, Italian, sushi, cheeses, meats) and consumed at the communal trestle tables at either end of the market. On our way back from the market we spotted Chez Omar, reputed to be the best Moroccan couscous restaurant in town.

Every arrondessiment in Paris has an open market on two days of the week. A few closed markets like this one are open all days of the week. The Marais being mostly Jewish is open on Sundays and is a great foddie option when most else is closed. To learn what it feels to be a local visit a marche on Saturday for some shopping, a drink and some wine and cheese or lunch.

Calvados

We had heard of it and did not wonder much. All I wanted was good Cidre from Normandy, until we tasted Calvados. Magic potion or apple brandy.
M.Lemessier our landlord at Bayeux is also a Calvados judge and he was kind
enough open several bottles of Calvados for a tasting. To learn to differentiate
the 4 year old from an 8 year old and a 20 year old and to discern the difference between sugar induced liqueurs and a pure pomme.
We learnt of specialized glasses and how to hold them to keep the Calvados warm. Went hunting for the glasses and the cheese to accompany the Calvados.Delicious "stinky as my shoes" Camembert, Pont-l'Evêque and Levarot. Levarot used to be the poor peoples cheese,made of the water from the whey left over from butter.Still delicious.
So we went to the marche. Absolutely fantastic market. The bustle, the livestock, the fruits and the colours. It was a dream to be there in a true farmers market...the ones in the U.S are great but this was heaven.